Trips and short breaks close to home: Liège
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The imperfect beauty with charm
“Liège!?” asks my travel buddy when I suggest our destination for a long weekend… “Isn’t that just steel, soccer, and French fries?”
But two weeks later, we’re sitting by the Meuse, drinking a creamy Café Liégeois and realizing that this city not only has heart, but also style, culture, and a rather idiosyncratic charm.
Stroll like a god in wallonia
Liège is wonderful to explore on foot: start at the Place du Marché and stroll past the pretty 17th-century facades towards the Perron Column, symbol of the city’s independence.
The adjacent Rue Hors-Château is a real gem, with old town houses, charming courtyards, and mysterious alleys.
Tip for walkers with stamina: 374 steps lead up the Montagne de Bueren to one of the best viewpoints in the city. Once you reach the top, you’ve earned a waffle… preferably with speculoos ice cream!
Art with edge and taste
Anyone who thinks Belgium is just Bruegel, Tintin and beer mat art will be proven wrong in Liège. The Musée La Boverie, located in an elegant Belle Époque building in the park of the same name, successfully combines classical masters with contemporary art. Keep an eye out for current exhibitions; every visit to this museum is worthwhile!
Not far away is the Trinkhall Museum (formerly the “MADmusée”), a small, eccentric house with art by people with intellectual disabilities. Moving, quirky, and deeply human. Anyone who thinks museums are boring has never been here!
Architecture with a wow factor and a green lung
The city’s most famous architectural landmark is undoubtedly the Liège-Guillemins railway station, designed by Spanish star architect Santiago Calatrava. Steel and glass arch over the platforms like wings – futuristic, bold, almost extraterrestrial. You just stand there and say “Wow”!
The Curtius Museum, a magnificent Renaissance building made of red brick right on the Meuse, offers a contrast to this. Inside, there is archaeology, arts and crafts, and a feeling that Belgium is a truly underrated treasure trove.
We were surprised by how many parks and green spaces this city has. In the Parc de la Boverie, you’ll find sunbathing lawns, ducks, and plenty of Belgian nonchalance. If you like it wilder, head to the “Coteaux de la Citadelle,” a hilly nature reserve in the middle of the city with small paths, vineyards, and secret gardens. It’s almost like Tuscany – only with more beer.
Pretty markets and wonderful waffles
On Sundays, don’t miss the Marché de la Batte, Belgium’s oldest open-air market, which stretches for miles along the Meuse River. Here, locals mingle with backpackers, and the air is filled with the smell of cheese, spices, and grilled food.
A short trip takes us to Haccourt, a village east of Liège with a charming weekly market – less hectic, but with excellent local cheese and a stall selling the best gaufres à la cannelle I’ve ever eaten.
Evening program with style and charm
If, like us, you don’t want to stay in an anonymous city hotel, we recommend the “N°5 Boutique Hotel,” a former mansion in the old town, lovingly restored, with creaky floorboards and lots of charm. You will also love the mini B&B “Maison Noppius,” with only two rooms, an enchanted garden, and hosts who bake fresh croissants every morning.
For dinner, head to Moment, tucked away in a former backyard studio, with creative cuisine and lots of candlelight. If you prefer to dine with a view, try Le Thème, a small restaurant on the Coteaux with a view over the city’s rooftops. The menu changes according to the chef’s mood and is guaranteed to be creative, unusual, and really good.
Le Dernier Ragot remains an insider tip, a brasserie, bar, and curiosity cabinet all in one. Enjoy Belgian-French cuisine with an Italian touch amid old radios, mirrors, and flickering lamps. Honest, romantic, and extremely tasty!
Discover liège… Highly recommended!
Liège is not perfect. And that’s exactly what makes it so endearing. Between crumbling plaster, modern art, considerable greenery, and remarkable individuality lies a city that is well worth discovering. With open eyes, a good appetite, and a sense of humor!